| The making process |
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The skills and craftsmanship that go into our shoes
Silvia describes the process of making shoes that goes on unseen by most clients Previously I described the making process from the perspective of my clients. In this section I describe the making process to provide insight into the effort and craftsmanship that is required to make shoes to our high standards.
At Silvia Campbell Shoes, our in-house team works closely with an international network of suppliers and partners to deliver to you the shoes that you desire. My leather and material suppliers, in particular, are very important to me. I have developed relationships with a small group of companies that I know and can trust to get me the quality I need often in very short timescales. I use these materials at the very first stages of design, working with my client to produce sketches of design concepts combined with textures and colours, overlaid on the chosen plastic mould of the foot, which we call a last. I have an ability to visualise a completed design from these early sketches and have learnt to trust my instinct that one route is more likely to lead to a good end result than another. Most of my clients seem to really enjoy this design process, often they surprise themselves how creative they can be. Having a bespoke-made pair of shoes goes beyond a purchase into an experience. When you have put something of yourself into a pair of shoes, I think you treasure them all the more. A close working relationship with my clients is critical to the process. Often we are working to a specific timescale, so minimising rework is important. It requires brutal honesty from my clients to tell me if we are heading in the wrong direction, whilst not constraining creativity; this requires a fine balance that I find improves with the number of pairs I make with a client.
The next stage in the process once the basic vision is created, is the production of a mock-up of the design. The purpose of the mock-up is to verify size and comfort of fit, and to help the client visualise the finished item. The mock-up is often roughly stitched using spare materials I have in my workshop, I certainly would never use the exotic skins and finest leathers planned for the finished shoes. With the mock-up ready, this is the time for the client to provide precise feedback to me, so that I can make any final changes to the design before moving on to making the shoes. On occasions we have taken a full step back and move to a re-design, but usually is a matter of making a few minor alterations.
We are now ready to start making the shoes themselves. I create my own patterns working against the chosen last, and stitch the shoe uppers cut from these patterns, a process shoemakers call Clicking and Closing. Once the upper is ready, the making process can start, where the uppers are pulled tightly over the last, held in place with glue and nails. All shoes benefit greatly from time spent on the last, keeping their shape better and looking good for longer. Rushing during this stage is a false economy. All shoemakers have their own ways of doing things, and I believe I have learnt many of the best techniques from a number of master craftsmen. When I started I bought a brand new set of shoe making tools but I could not get the quality results I was looking for. I was then given some tools that are about 60 years old and they are wonderful, helping me achieve the quality results I was seeking.
With the shoes properly set on the last, they can be removed for finishing. I carefully polish the shoes to bring out the best in the materials and package them up for presentation to my client. I am often quite nervous when it comes to revealing the finished shoes for the first time, even though I have never had a bad reaction from a client. Successful final delivery is about working closely with each client, to understand their desires and concerns and making early corrections. Setting the right expectations through an open and honest relationship is the key to a great partnership with my clients.Each pair is made to be cherished, worn to give confidence and owned in pride.Read more about the client engagement process. For further information contact Silvia Campbell at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it , telephone +44(0)7825 794275 |


At Silvia Campbell Shoes, our in-house team works closely with an international network of suppliers and partners to deliver to you the shoes that you desire. My leather and material suppliers, in particular, are very important to me. I have developed relationships with a small group of companies that I know and can trust to get me the quality I need often in very short timescales. I use these materials at the very first stages of design, working with my client to produce sketches of design concepts combined with textures and colours, overlaid on the chosen plastic mould of the foot, which we call a last. I have an ability to visualise a completed design from these early sketches and have learnt to trust my instinct that one route is more likely to lead to a good end result than another. Most of my clients seem to really enjoy this design process, often they surprise themselves how creative they can be. Having a bespoke-made pair of shoes goes beyond a purchase into an experience. When you have put something of yourself into a pair of shoes, I think you treasure them all the more.
A close working relationship with my clients is critical to the process. Often we are working to a specific timescale, so minimising rework is important. It requires brutal honesty from my clients to tell me if we are heading in the wrong direction, whilst not constraining creativity; this requires a fine balance that I find improves with the number of pairs I make with a client.
The next stage in the process once the basic vision is created, is the production of a mock-up of the design. The purpose of the mock-up is to verify size and comfort of fit, and to help the client visualise the finished item. The mock-up is often roughly stitched using spare materials I have in my workshop, I certainly would never use the exotic skins and finest leathers planned for the finished shoes. With the mock-up ready, this is the time for the client to provide precise feedback to me, so that I can make any final changes to the design before moving on to making the shoes. On occasions we have taken a full step back and move to a re-design, but usually is a matter of making a few minor alterations.
We are now ready to start making the shoes themselves. I create my own patterns working against the chosen last, and stitch the shoe uppers cut from these patterns, a process shoemakers call Clicking and Closing. Once the upper is ready, the making process can start, where the uppers are pulled tightly over the last, held in place with glue and nails. All shoes benefit greatly from time spent on the last, keeping their shape better and looking good for longer. Rushing during this stage is a false economy.
All shoemakers have their own ways of doing things, and I believe I have learnt many of the best techniques from a number of master craftsmen. When I started I bought a brand new set of shoe making tools but I could not get the quality results I was looking for. I was then given some tools that are about 60 years old and they are wonderful, helping me achieve the quality results I was seeking.
With the shoes properly set on the last, they can be removed for finishing. I carefully polish the shoes to bring out the best in the materials and package them up for presentation to my client. I am often quite nervous when it comes to revealing the finished shoes for the first time, even though I have never had a bad reaction from a client. Successful final delivery is about working closely with each client, to understand their desires and concerns and making early corrections. Setting the right expectations through an open and honest relationship is the key to a great partnership with my clients.Each pair is made to be cherished, worn to give confidence and owned in pride.